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Post by coopdad on Feb 1, 2010 9:17:53 GMT -5
Until now I have been using .1" rod (Evergreen #213) for my cages. It works well but I have always felt it was just a little large looking, especially for 1/25 models. So I hit the local hobby store and found .093 TUBE (Evergreen #223). To me it looks a little more correct and the big advantage, it is tube so it has a couple of advantages over rod: 1. it bends much easier 2a. it is so bendable that it will allow you to adjust the curve radius and location very easily. 2b. it holds its curve better. The rod would not stay at the desired radius, heating was often required to force it to stay. 2c. being a tube you can insert wire inside... this makes it hold exactly the curve with NO snap back. 3. it seems less breakable. The .1 rod always seemed to snap when making tight curves 4. and the wire inside the tube works great as locating pegs allowing you to drill holes in the floor and mount it exactly where you want it.
There are disadvantages though. Because it flexes so well, the first hoop starts out very flimsy until you have a few bars in place... this is a little un-nerving to me knowing the cage will be correct, later. Also, being tube it will melt much faster than rod. So until you are used to it, go sparingly on the welding cement.
Thought I would share my find. John
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Post by ddlova on Feb 14, 2010 14:29:22 GMT -5
good tips! for most of all the rollcages i've made for drag racing projects i've always preferred to use .080 Evergreen rod. some guys like to use the 1/16" rod which i think looks a little small, but some times is okay. for trucks the .100 may be a good choice for exterior bars?
some other tips i have are to use a round needle file to "fishmouth" the joints and to use some sort of liquid welding cement like Tenax-7r. notching or fishmouthing the joints makes them nice and strong and looks more realistic.
Dave
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Post by coopdad on Feb 15, 2010 13:17:07 GMT -5
Richard (modeljeeper) posted this chart on the DRM forum. Great info but unfortuately the site won't allow me to link to it.
Hope it is ok that I share your great info Richard.
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Post by coopdad on Feb 15, 2010 13:29:42 GMT -5
Another trick I have found that makes using tube rather than rod is making alignment pins. If you need to butt tubes together, just insert a slightly smaller rod inside and use it to line up the bars. For instance, I made a bar too long so I cut out a small section using a saw. Then connected them together with a short piece of 1.2mm diameter rod inserted inside. It forces the bars to line up perfectly... you can't even tell where it was cut (if your cuts are clean). A disadvantage I have found is that if you use the wire inside, cutting the tube in a section where the wire goes can be problematic. You will have to cut the wire inside also. Xacto for the tube, diagonal clippers for the wire, and file to sand it flat (the wire always sticks out slightly because the clippers won't cut close enough to the end.) So I have started using the wire only in curved sections. John
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