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Post by coopdad on Aug 2, 2010 13:08:24 GMT -5
Just wonderful... the tires are perfectly dirtied, the motor is the perfect color (and brand), the body is perfectly built. The only thing bad is you are the only one with one. John
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Post by Chuck Most on Aug 2, 2010 13:20:55 GMT -5
I'm really diggin' this one!
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Post by Big Ed on Aug 2, 2010 19:37:52 GMT -5
LOL John. I agree.
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wickedwelder
Full Member
All who wander are not lost
Posts: 100
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Post by wickedwelder on Aug 2, 2010 22:31:35 GMT -5
all i can say is WOW!!!! you have done an outstanding job!!! I agree with everyone else, put me on the list for one also. Keep up the great work!!!
Gary
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kynan
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by kynan on Aug 3, 2010 7:56:04 GMT -5
thanks guy's I only got a bit done today got most of the plumbing done, the front and rear brakes lines' The main main brake lines, extended the diff breathers in to the cab area (A trick I was taught to do to keep the water out of the diffs good idea if you get a lot of mud around the diff breathers as they can stick open), ran the wires for the rear lights and winch, as well as the air line for the diff locks and on board air tank will post pictures latter. I need a little bit of help I'm looking for some info I.e pictures, measurements, or drawing of a on board Welding systems that some trail rigs are equipped with. Thanks heaps Kynan
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kynan
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by kynan on Aug 4, 2010 22:08:43 GMT -5
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Post by kolbenschmidt on Aug 5, 2010 12:13:23 GMT -5
this is looking soooo cool! you have to get it cast!
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Post by gray07 on Aug 6, 2010 10:35:20 GMT -5
looks great
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cipher
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by cipher on Aug 10, 2010 18:46:05 GMT -5
superbly awesome job.. wish I had half that skill.. shoot, even a 1/4!
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Post by intimidator01 on Aug 10, 2010 19:44:24 GMT -5
Lookin' GREAT!
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kynan
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by kynan on Aug 11, 2010 6:09:06 GMT -5
superbly awesome job.. wish I had half that skill.. shoot, even a 1/4! Cipher it not that hard to do all you have to do is have a firm idea what you want to build, plain it well, get lots of good information, work slow, and be prepared to redo bits again and again till you are happy with it. Then you will be amazed at what you can do. just don't rush it. if I can do it so can you my neck has one disc that is no more 2 disc that are about to go and spinal cord damage, right arm and shoulder is a total mess and only has about 35% movement and is always in pain with a little feeling and my hand has always got bad pins and needles in it from my neck I have had 9 goes at surgery in the last 10 years, and I'm right handed, if I can do it so can you. The more you do the better you will get, and start small back to the Build got the inner door panels done and most of the other inside details finished will post pictures tomorrow morning
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Post by Big Ed on Aug 11, 2010 12:52:37 GMT -5
Kynan, what an excellent build. All the detailing looks great. But can I ask how you did the muddied tires? To me, it looks like you rolled 'em in real mud and clear-coated them. Yes...no?
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kynan
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by kynan on Aug 11, 2010 20:30:40 GMT -5
simple answer is no but it might work this is how I do it I will also post this in the how to "Tips" section. The Tyres are painted with thinned model master Raw Umber (Resin) or Tamiya Raw Umber (Vinyl) which I have it thinned where it will run in to the groves and will dry splotchy, Its not as thin as a wash just a bit thicker than to air brush I have found that the Raw Umber is a best generic Dirt / Mud colour and looks the best in scale because it's a natural colour found in the real world . I find that is a great base colour for mud, dust and grime for any tyre that goes on gravel or dirt. I then go over it with washes and pastels to finish it but have yet to do it. If you look at real dirt its any were from light brown to dark rust
This is what you need 1 #2 of 3 Paint brush 2 paper hand towel the type in shopping centre toilets or were you work (because it less absorbent than the paper kitchen towel) 3 Thinned Raw Umber paint I use Model Master as I have found that I like it the best but takes ages to dry but when you weather with pastels it sets. Tamiya dries on vinyl tires so can be used as well. 4 Pastels in different shades of brown 5 Gloves can be messy This is how I do it 1 I paint on The thinned paint to a section 1/4 of the tread area at a time coating the whole tread and groves 2 Roll the painted area on the paper towel this will remove most of the paint of the raised tread (this is the reason that I don't use super absorbent towelling) you should be left with the tread area looking like a tire that drive on a dirt track 3 This is the reason that I use this thinned. Paint the side walls if you work the paint you will get to go on in different thickness, the splotchy look we normally hate this when it happens on parts but here this is what we want! work it around till you get a random pattern or are happy with it or wipe it off and start again 4 let it dry or dry as much as enamel will on vinyl 5 dust or work it the pastel powers to high light or shade different areas and add colour shades to the dirt/mud. Sorry if I made it sound complicated it takes about 5 mins and is easy, the the end look is up to you
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kynan
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by kynan on Aug 11, 2010 23:03:26 GMT -5
Here is the door and floor/ seats almost finished. the doors need a bit of weathering to bring them to life and the seat only have the 4 point harness to go on them will post the dash and the cab roof lining when done soon
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nocky
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by nocky on Aug 12, 2010 4:35:39 GMT -5
Mate, that is outstanding!
Just a question (from a cousin over the "ditch") where did you get the brass(?) leaf springs from? I have been trying to make some (in 1:18th scale) but can't find anything thin enough. I am making some leaf springs from plastic, but I keep breaking them when I flex the wheels up and down (as they are working leaf springs).
cheers
Peter
PS, I won't mention the rugby if you don't.....opps ;-)
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