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Post by jeffs396 on Sept 13, 2012 20:48:40 GMT -5
Gotta have KC stone guards ;D Chris, I think we have to straighten out the funky proportions of the J10 kit before we do any grille conversions, might as well do a separate cab/bed too while we're at it Here's the start of my longbed project: And my 1:1 to measure from ;D The biggest issue with the kit is the stamped section ABOVE the flares is too high, throwing off the proportions. It needs a bit of sectioning And the roof panel doesn't have enough height to it...and the flares are off...and the... Parts are on the way Michael!
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Post by jeffs396 on Sept 15, 2012 19:04:29 GMT -5
And these:
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Post by hjracing on Sept 18, 2012 7:50:27 GMT -5
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Post by dirtmodeler on Sept 18, 2012 21:23:37 GMT -5
Parts received today. I'll break into them soon and see what i can come up with.
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Post by randx0 on Sept 21, 2012 23:21:28 GMT -5
Parts received today. I'll break into them soon and see what i can come up with. I can't wait to see where this goes if anything comes of it .
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Post by 01blueedge on Sept 23, 2012 20:02:18 GMT -5
another thing I was thinking about that we need in resin is the front bumper and winch out of the Bigfoot 1 kit. I have a couple of older truck kits that I want to build that these would look just right on
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Post by delta99 on Sept 24, 2012 17:06:40 GMT -5
I agree with gluhead about the tires. I'm mostly interested in about 32-36mm diameter. Soreals are too big for my taste. Of course 4 wheel drive conversions are in demand, as well as 8 lug steel wheels. Something in particular i'd like to see is diesel engines, and extra/crew cabs
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Post by dirtmodeler on Oct 7, 2012 12:00:55 GMT -5
Hi Guys, just taking a moment to check in.
For the beadlocks, are you guys going to be cutting off the existing beadlock molded into the wheel rim on those So Real Wheels, and then placing my PE beadlock in it's place? Jeffs, is it ok if i hack up one of those wheel you sent me to get the measurement sans beadlock?
thanks.
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Post by jeffs396 on Oct 7, 2012 15:29:52 GMT -5
Michael, hack away!!! That's why I sent you the extra wheel/tire...so you have four for a build if you want, and one to chop up ;D We may just want to sand the existing SoReal rim beadlock detail smooth (but leaving the molded flange) to accept an etched ring, instead of removing it completely? The ID can be much smaller too, leaving room for additional logos or cut details. I've seen some 1:1 beadlock rings that almost cover the entire wheel! The Jeep stuff I sent you is for other etched pieces we can use if you need more to fill up a fret. the taillights for stone guards (these lenses are used on other brands stepside beds too) the dash and decals for reference for an overlay of the gauge area (a popular stainless upgrade on 1:1s). PM me if you need reference pics or have any questions. Thanks again for considering us!
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casey
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by casey on Oct 11, 2012 20:14:01 GMT -5
Two Revell '65 Chevy Fleetside kits are in my possession, so now all I need are great reference pics of the longbed. I'll see what I can find on the web for now.
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Post by jeffs396 on Oct 12, 2012 0:01:31 GMT -5
Good news Casey! I'll be the first in line to buy 2 longbeds Here's a decent pic:
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Post by dirtmodeler on Nov 11, 2012 19:10:04 GMT -5
Hi All... I've been working on the beadlock artwork. The first few will be available around Christmas this year. The first three i'll be doing will be on the Chrome plate, so they will come pre-chromed. The second wave will be following behind that, and will be raw brass. The second wave of wheel covers/beadlocks will be of styles that are traditionally painted, so the chrome won't be necessary. The light covers and guards are going to have to come later. They will have to be done in stainless, and i still have to put together enough new parts to comprise a full sheet of parts. If anyone has any suggestions as to which of those options they would be most interested in, please let me know!
I'm here to support you guys!
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Post by randx0 on Nov 11, 2012 23:56:46 GMT -5
I am just so happy right now. Thank you for not ignoring this segment . I am anxiously waiting for these to be available as I know the top notch work that you do and the attention to detail . As for my own personal taste I like the stuff that works and don't particularly like the show truck stuff but I still don't see anything above that I wouldn't buy just some I would buy more often .
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Post by dirtmodeler on Nov 12, 2012 0:49:25 GMT -5
I am just so happy right now. Thank you for not ignoring this segment . I am anxiously waiting for these to be available as I know the top notch work that you do and the attention to detail . As for my own personal taste I like the stuff that works and don't particularly like the show truck stuff but I still don't see anything above that I wouldn't buy just some I would buy more often . Thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to supporting the 4x4 enthusiasts. One concern of mine with the 2nd wave of beadlocks will be the fragility. if you look at the photo above, at the 4 i've drawn up. The red areas are going to be etched 1/2 way down. The black bolt heads will be full thickness, so they will stick out and look realistic. The beadlocks i use on the dirt oval cars use the same method and are fine, but since these are a little bigger they will seem even more 'bendy'. the only way to keep the cost down to earth is to make them in my standard brass.. if i switch those all up to stainless steel.. they would be much stronger.. but also quite a bit more spendy.
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Post by randx0 on Nov 12, 2012 1:42:43 GMT -5
well i don't think they will see much trail time so stainless may not be necessary. I think most of us can unbend if needed and it is a relatively easy piece to apply. I would trust your judgement . I think that the value you provide is equal to your quality which is top notch.
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